Tractor for the garden, greenhouse or field: the main differences

It seems, what’s the point of that tractor? I bought a car with wheels, hooked up a plow, and off I went. But in practice, everything is more complicated. Someone who confidently plows a field, knocks down branches in the garden, and in a greenhouse simply won’t turn around between the beds. And vice versa, a compact kid who walks perfectly between the rows simply won’t pull a heavy plow.

That’s why there are so many models on the market that your eyes run up, and the assortment, for example here https://agrogear.com.ua/traktora only confirms that there is no universal solution. So let’s take a look at how these machines really differ and what to look for before you shell out money.

Tractor for the garden

The main thing here is not power, but dimensions. Because the garden does not need a hero, it needs someone who can pass between the rows and not knock over branches.

So look first at the width. Garden tractors have a narrow track, usually from 90 to 130 cm, so that they can easily pass between the rows. A small turning radius is also important, so that you can turn around at the end of the row and not trample half the garden.

The second is height. Classic garden models have a deliberately low profile, so they don’t catch branches or knock over fruit. And the machine shouldn’t be too heavy, otherwise it will compact the soil above the roots.

Power is quite enough within the range of 18-30 horsepower. This is enough to mow the grass, spray trees, loosen the soil and transport the crop.

A tractor for a greenhouse

But here the requirements are the most stringent, because you have to work indoors.

First of all, the dimensions. The width of the aisles in greenhouses is usually one and a half meters, so the equipment needs to be appropriate.

They take mini tractors up to a meter wide, with a small turning radius. Measure your aisles in advance, because it will be difficult to return the goods later.

The second thing, and this is often forgotten, is the exhaust. In a confined space, a diesel engine quickly turns a greenhouse into a gas chamber, harming both people and plants. Therefore, more and more often they take electric models or work with open ends and ventilation.

12-20 hp will be enough power. Nobody plows virgin land here, the main tasks are milling, preparing beds and transporting.

Tractor for the field

But in the field, it’s the opposite. Here you need:

• strength;
• weight;
• endurance.

Power is taken from 25 horsepower, and if the area is serious, then from 40-60. The logic is simple, the heavier the attachment, the more power is needed. A plow, disk harrow, or seed drill simply won’t pull on a weak tractor.

Weight is no less important. A light machine will skid because it lacks traction with the soil. That’s why field tractors are made heavier, fitted with wide tires, and sometimes ballast is added.

Be sure to check for a power take-off shaft and a standard three-point hitch. Without them, you simply won’t be able to connect most units.

Can you get by with just one tractor?

So it turns out that the differences are real, and considerable. So, should you buy all three machines? No, of course not. If you have a small farm with a vegetable garden, a few beds under plastic, and a half-acre garden, one universal minitractor with 20-25 hp will be enough. It will pull the tiller, pass between the trees, and carry the trailer.

But when the tasks begin to contradict each other, compromise will no longer work. For example, a machine that confidently plows hectares simply will not fit into a meter-long greenhouse, no matter how much you buy it. And vice versa, a compact little one will never pull a double-hull plow.

So first determine what your main work is, and get a tractor for it. And adjust the rest of the tasks to it, and not vice versa. After all, the whole difference comes down to three things - in the garden, width matters, in the greenhouse, dimensions, and in the field, power.